Pastel-colored buildings line the waterfront, fishing boats bob gently in the harbor and locals sip espresso under striped awnings as church bells echo across the sea. This is Chiavari, a town that captures the laid-back rhythm of the Italian Riviera without the crowds of Portofino or Cinque Terre. It is one of those rare discoveries where you pinch yourself to see if it’s real.
Chiavari may not make the front page of glossy travel magazines, but it has been thriving for centuries. Founded by the Romans, it grew into a prosperous medieval port and a center for Ligurian trade. Traces of that past are still visible today in its maze of narrow lanes, known as “carruggi,” where arched passageways lead to hidden courtyards and tiled piazzas.
Walking through the historic center takes you into another world, where ornate palazzi and faded frescoes sit beside family-owned bakeries and wine shops that have been here for generations. In Piazza Mazzini, locals gather beneath Renaissance arcades to chat about the day’s catch or the latest football match, a timeless ritual that has changed little over the centuries.
A slower pace on the Italian Riviera
While nearby Portofino attracts luxury yachts and celebrities, life in Chiavari still revolves around the sea and the seasons. Mornings begin at the harbor as fishermen return with baskets of anchovies and squid, often selling them directly from their boats. The beach, long and sandy by Ligurian standards, fills with locals who swim year-round and sip aperitivo as the sun sets over the water.
This quieter pace makes Chiavari a favorite among travelers who want to experience the Riviera without the crowds, expense and touristy gimmicks. Enjoy breakfast by the water with a cappuccino and freshly baked focaccia, lunch on the promenade and a browse at the weekly antiques market afterwards.
Explore Chiavari’s hidden corners
Away from the main streets, small artisan workshops produce everything from handmade leather sandals to traditional macrame lace, a craft passed down for centuries. The town is also known for its “chiavarina,” a wooden chair designed in the early 19th century that symbolized Italian craftsmanship.
Art lovers will enjoy ducking into the Museo Diocesano, housed in a former bishop’s palace. This museum holds centuries of religious art and rare manuscripts. Nearby, the 12th-century San Giovanni Battista Cathedral, with its bell tower rising above the rooftops, is worth a look.
For a change of scenery, follow the coastal path that leads to the small fishing village of Zoagli, famous for its silk weaving tradition. The views from this trail are spectacular, stretching across the Gulf of Tigullio toward the dramatic cliffs of Portofino Natural Park.
Food that captures the spirit of Liguria
Few things define a place as clearly as its food, and Chiavari’s cuisine is a delicious reflection of its history and landscape. The town sits in the heart of Liguria, the birthplace of pesto, and local restaurants serve it as it should be: hand-crushed in a marble mortar, mixed with trofie pasta and topped with a generous helping of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Seafood is central to the menu. Anchovies caught just offshore are marinated with lemon and olive oil, while mussels from the nearby Gulf of La Spezia are steamed with garlic and white wine. Traditional trattorias serve frittura mista, an irresistible mix of fried calamari, shrimp and small fish, served with a squeeze of lemon.
And then there’s focaccia. In Chiavari, bakeries bake it fresh several times daily, brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. Locals eat it as a snack, with coffee at breakfast, or alongside an afternoon glass of Vermentino wine.
Seasonal traditions and local life
Like many Italian towns, Chiavari celebrates the seasons with passion. In summer, events such as the Chiavari Summer Dance Festival fill the squares with sound. Autumn brings olive and wine harvests, marked by small fairs and tastings in nearby villages. But it’s Christmas that casts a special spell. The town’s cobbled streets glow with lights, markets pop up selling handmade decorations and nativity scenes appear in shop windows and churches.
On Sunday mornings, families gather for long lunches that stretch into the afternoon. In the evenings, locals join the passeggiata, a leisurely stroll along the seafront where life almost seems to stand still.
Day trips and nearby adventures
Chiavari’s location makes it an ideal base for exploring the Italian Riviera. A short train ride takes you to the dramatic cliffside villages of the Cinque Terre, while the glamorous streets of Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo are just minutes away. Ferries run regularly along the coast, offering a scenic way to visit Portofino or the art-filled city of Genoa.
For nature lovers, the nearby Aveto Natural Regional Park offers hiking trails through forests, alpine meadows and mountain lakes. And for wine enthusiasts, the hills behind Chiavari are home to family-run vineyards where you can taste local white wines and learn about Liguria’s unique winemaking traditions.
Planning your visit
The best time to visit Chiavari is from late spring to early autumn, when the weather is warm and the sea is perfect for swimming. Summer brings lively events and festivals, while September and October offer pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. Winter is quiet but atmospheric, especially around the holidays when the town lights up with decorations and seasonal markets.
Getting here is easy. Chiavari sits on the main coastal railway line, with frequent trains from Genoa, Pisa and La Spezia. The nearest airports are in Genoa and Pisa, which have connections to major European cities. Once in town, most places are walkable, and bicycles are popular for exploring the waterfront and the surrounding countryside.
Chiavari offers a mix of boutique hotels, family-run guesthouses and old villas converted into small inns. Staying in the old town puts you within walking distance of markets, restaurants and the beach, while properties on the hills above the city offer panoramic views of the coastline.
Chiavari is worth discovering
Chiavari has all the elements that make the Italian Riviera so special: beautiful scenery, delicious food and a deep sense of history. Yet it remains refreshingly under the radar, a place hidden from tourists. It is a destination that invites you to slow down, savor the moment and rediscover the joy of simple pleasures by the sea.
Kylie Lang is a lifestyle and travel writer with the British Guild of Travel Writers, living in France. She’s the founder of Your Lifestyle Library, a blog where she shares insights on European travel, culture and seasonal living. Her writing is featured in major media outlets, including MSN in the United States, The Daily Examiner, Media Decision, The Good Life France, Travelbinger, Expat Focus and many others.
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