OPINION:
Our Thanksgiving plans fell through this year, so we turned to an old friend that has grown sketchy in recent years: Cracker Barrel.
The Barrel used to be at least a monthly destination for us. We liked everything about it, including the antique decor on the walls and the hearty fare served up, biscuits and all.
On cold nights, the fireplace was quite welcome, as was the attached country store, packed with affordable gift items, some of which are openly Christian, not just Christmassy.
Founded in Lebanon, Tennessee, in 1969, the folksy chain had been under attack for years by leftist pressure groups. It finally began going somewhat woke so it could crack markets in Democratic-run jurisdictions such as Massachusetts. The management even began adopting the wish list of LGBTQ activist groups such as the Human Rights Campaign, which had bullied most Fortune 500 companies into adopting its agenda.
This happened quietly, and it didn’t really reach radar level until this summer, when the management team rebranded the fabled chain to fit into the cold world of modernism. CEO Julie Felss Masino, who joined the company in 2023, orchestrated a new logo without “The Old Timer” at the barrel and unveiled a revamped dining room design so sterile it lacked only school cafeteria trays.
Those wonderful antique photos and old magazine ads on the walls? History. The menu was also revised, with unthinkable changes such as mass-producing biscuit batter and freezing it instead of making it daily in each restaurant.
The rebrand was announced on Aug. 19. Reaction was swift, with longtime customers vowing to never again set foot in a Cracker Barrel, at least until the board got rid of the geniuses who had stuck a dagger into the very heart of the chain’s appeal.
Various talking heads, including Donald Trump Jr., weighed in by slamming the changes. By Aug. 24, the stock price had slipped 11% amid calls for a boycott, as foot traffic dropped by 9%.
On Aug. 26, President Trump, in a Truth Social post, urged the company to abandon its redesign plans and restore the logo. Within hours, the company announced that it had done so.
Still, as Bud Light, Target and other corporate brands learned the hard way, the damage was done. Cracker Barrel is still reeling.
In October, the company fired the San Francisco-based marketing firm that had led the disastrous rebranding. In November, shareholders had their say. Board member Gilbert Davila, a marketing and diversity specialist, got only 40% of the retention vote, falling short of the 50% required to stay. He immediately resigned.
Ms. Masino was slapped with 25% voting against her, but amazingly remains CEO. Opposition to Ms. Masino and Mr. Davila was led by Sardar Biglari, the CEO of the Steak ’n Shake chain. He and some associates own about 3% of Cracker Barrel’s stock. I’m not sure what he is up to, but his impact has been considerable.
On Dec. 9, The Wall Street Journal reported that Cracker Barrel shares “declined nearly 49% this year through Tuesday’s close” and that “same-store sales over the three months ended Oct. 31 declined 4.7%, and 8.5% in the chain’s retail business.”
It’s not clear what will bring back the Barrel’s customer base. “We certainly have more work to do,” Ms. Masino said during an investor call Tuesday.
I have a few ideas. Ms. Masino could resign or do some more apologizing, along with giving assurances that the kitchen will return to its culinary standard. They might want to restore 100% maple syrup too.
If the board at some point decides to go in a different managerial direction, I doubt Ms. Masino would have any trouble finding another plum job. Much of corporate America is awash in wokeness, and many firms would welcome an executive whose sin was to move too far left, too fast.
However, if she is truly intent on restoring the brand’s finest features, I hope she succeeds.
For the record, our Thanksgiving dinner, a traditional feast of turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes, green beans, cranberry sauce and, yes, biscuits, was superb. Our local Cracker Barrel looked great too, having been spared the initial round of redesign that had hit a few unlucky locations.
As we passed through the country store and perused the seasonal wares, it was like old times. In fact, I gave the Old Timer on the sign a salute on the way out.
• Robert Knight is a columnist for The Washington Times. His website is roberthknight.com.
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