Artezin, Zinfandel, Mendocino County, California, 2007, $18.
Bold and brash, zinfandel — the red wine made with the dark-skinned grape of the same name — is never for the faint of heart or palate. Its appeal comes from its upfront, forward fruit and spice flavors, and good examples always seem slightly heady. They’re lip-smacking wines, powerful and robust.
Given this grape’s natural propensity toward concentration and brawn, the challenge for vintners consists in channeling its energy so that the wines don’t end up hot and heavy. Many winemakers don’t meet it successfully, and you can find lots of zins these days that seem soupy when you sip them. But those that succeed produce truly exciting wines that, while certainly muscular, taste bright and lively, as well.
This youthful zinfandel from a producer specializing in the varietal does just that. It’s chock-full of brambly blackberry fruit flavors with undertones of peppery spice, but it has enough refreshing acidity to give it vitality as well as force. Good zin always pairs well with ribs, chicken or just about anything else slathered with a zesty tomato-based barbecue sauce. So fire up the grill, pop the cork, and enjoy.
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