Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Wiener schnitzel, that celebrated veal dish redolent of Viennese cooking, is a classic in any cookbook, but it’s surprisingly adaptable to variations.

Traditionally, a veal scallop is coated in flour, dipped in beaten egg, and then dusted with dry bread crumbs. For my latest variation, I substituted butterflied boneless pork chops, and garnished them with a delectable red onion and raisin chutney in place of the usual lemon wedges.

Schnitzels are best served as soon as they are pan-fried, golden and crisp, but the technique is so simple that you can easily use them for entertaining. The secret to turning out perfectly cooked cutlets is to cover the bottom of a heavy skillet generously with oil and to heat that oil until it is quite hot but not smoking. Then count on 3 to 4 minutes per side to cook the pork.



Mound some chutney (make it two days ahead!) on each schnitzel and offer a green salad or boiled potatoes tossed in butter and parsley as sides. Don’t be surprised if guests ask for seconds!

Pork schnitzels with red onion and raisin chutney

Makes 6 servings.

CHUTNEY:

1 pound (about 2 medium) red onions

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2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup (1 large) unpeeled, finely diced Granny Smith apple

1/3 cup dark raisins

1/3 cup sugar

2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

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1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

PORK:

6 boneless center cut pork chops, 6 ounces each and trimmed of excess fat

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2 cups dry bread crumbs

1 large egg

1/4 cup milk

1 tablespoon ground cumin

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Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup flour

Canola oil

For chutney, quarter onions lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When melted and hot, add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add apple, raisins, sugar, ginger, cinnamon and vinegar. Stir to combine well. Cook, stirring often, until apples are very soft, mixture is translucent, and liquids are nearly evaporated, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove and cool slightly. (Chutney can be prepared two days ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature to serve.)

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For pork, preheat oven to 250 degrees. With a sharp knife held parallel to work surface, halve a pork chop horizontally, being careful not to cut all the way through. With a meat pounder or rolling pin, pound pork until 1/4-inch thick. Repeat with remaining chops.

Spread bread crumbs and flour on separate large plates. Lightly beat egg and milk in a shallow dish. Pat pork dry with paper towels. Combine cumin, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 3/4 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl; season each cutlet on both sides with spice mixture. Dredge each in flour, then dip in egg mixture, then coat with bread crumbs.

Add enough oil to coat the bottom of a large heavy skillet, and set over medium-high heat until oil is hot, but not smoking. Saute enough pork to fit comfortably in a single layer until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove to baking sheet and place in oven to keep warm. Repeat with remaining cutlets. Add more oil if needed. Serve schnitzels with chutney.

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