“Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the cornmeal thickens, about 30 to 45 minutes.” Those instructions have daunted countless would-be polenta makers. After all, who wants to stand over a steaming pot for 45 minutes, stirring cornmeal nonstop? Well, as anyone who has discovered the tastiness and versatility of this savory comfort food in its slow-cooked form would be able to tell you, it’s worth the wait.
A staple of Northern Italian cuisine, modern polenta dates to the mid-17th century. It was during this time that the Venetians introduced American corn to the region. Prior to the 1600s, one variation of polenta was made using chestnut flour, while another version may have existed that used barley.
Cooked in an unlined copper kettle, the combination of yellow cornmeal, or ground corn, and water was ceaselessly stirred until a thick mush formed. To test for doneness, the cook would insert her wooden spoon in the center of the mixture. If the spoon stood up on its own, the polenta was done.
Once finished, the polenta was served immediately in its porridge-like state or spooned out of the pot, spread out on a flat surface to cool and solidify, and then cut into squares. The pieces would then be grilled or fried and paired up with seafood, vegetables or a sauce.
“Every region in Italy has a different way of preparing polenta,” says Paolo Berton, an ardent cook who resides in Rome. “Normally, in the south it is more fluid and yellow as it’s made from corn flour. In the north of Italy it is solid and thick as a cake, and either yellow or white from corn flour or black from buckwheat flour.”
For the impatient, there is instant polenta, but it doesn’t have the rich taste of the slow-cooked.
To add gusto to the dish, substitute chicken, pork or beef stock for water. Add finely chopped onions, shallots or garlic into the simmering polenta or mix in grated or crumbled cheese once the polenta has cooked.
Polenta is delicious on its own, but it can complement a variety of delectable foods. Stewed, braised or roasted meats, grilled fish and shellfish, and roasted fowl all couple well with it. When working with meats and fish, be sure to reserve some of their cooking juices so that the liquid can be used as a light sauce for the polenta.
Polenta can serve as a stand-in for such basic ingredients as pasta in lasagna. Just spread out, cool and cut the cooked polenta into strips. Place the strips in a baking dish and cover with cheese, meat or vegetables and tomato sauce, and bake.
When left in its soft, mushlike state, polenta makes an appetizing alternative to mashed potatoes.
Soft, cheesy polenta
This is a basic soft polenta recipe with a little cheese and chicken stock added for flavor. Makes 4 servings.
2 cups water
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons salted butter
2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 tablespoon ground black pepper
In a large saucepan bring the water and chicken stock to a boil. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a wooden spoon as you add it. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for about 30 minutes or until the polenta is extremely thick and the spoon can support itself in the pan.
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter, Parmesan cheese and ground black pepper. Serve immediately.
Grilled polenta with sauteed mushrooms
Makes 4 servings.
4 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 ounces cremini mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
1 shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Olive oil, for brushing onto the polenta squares
In a large saucepan bring the water to a boil. Add the salt. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a wooden spoon as you add it. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for about 30 minutes or until the polenta is extremely thick and the spoon can support itself in the pan. Remove from the heat and spoon the polenta into a rectangular, lightly oiled, 2-quart baking dish. Allow the polenta to cool and solidify.
While the polenta is cooling, pre-heat the grill. In a medium-sized frying or saute pan, heat the butter. Add the mushrooms and saute over medium heat until slightly softened. Add the shallot, salt and pepper and continue cooking over medium until mushrooms are soft. Remove pan from the heat and set aside.
Cut the polenta into 2-inch squares. Brush each side of the squares with olive oil to prevent sticking and place the squares onto a sheet of tin foil. Grill the polenta until lightly browned on one side, about 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully flip over the polenta squares and grill on the other side for the same amount of time. Place the grilled polenta onto a platter. Top each piece with a spoonful of mushrooms and serve.
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