Wine of the week

St. Francis, “Red,” Sonoma County (California) 2006, $12.

Sometimes the blend justifies the means. A blended wine, meaning one made with many different grape varieties, can taste just as good as one fashioned primarily with a single grape. This Red is a case in point. Made with merlot, cabernet, syrah, zinfandel and small amounts of other dark-skinned grapes, it tastes stylish and sophisticated. For $12, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a superior American red wine.

Many of the world’s greatest wines are blends. From Bordeaux to the Rhone, Tuscany to Rioja, winemakers use varying amounts of different grapes to craft wines that taste complete and complex. Though American consumers and vintners tend to think in terms of single varietals, in truth, many wines identified as such actually contain a significant percentage of other grapes. (The national regulations require 75 percent of the wine to come from one variety in order to be labeled as such.) Just as different spices add intriguing flavors to a sauce or dish, different grapes can make a wine more compelling.

This particular blend offers flavors reminiscent of red fruits, enhanced by secondary notes that echo chocolate and savory spice. Supple on the palate, it clearly has been designed for near-term consumption and should provide satisfying sipping all this fall and winter. Priced to enjoy with pizza or burgers, it’s definitely good enough to drink with steak.