Vineyards, Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley, California, 2008, $20
For some reason, American wine drinkers have never really embraced pinot gris. Pinot grigio, the often tart Italian version of the same grape variety, yes; but gris, typically richer and more mellow, no.
That’s a shame. The grape can yield riveting white wines, and some truly outstanding examples are being made in America. If you haven’t yet tried domestic pinot gris, now is the time to do so.
A great partner for poultry or seafood dishes, particularly Asian-influenced - pinot gris loves ginger - this is a grape begging for a little love.
The recently released 2008 from J Vineyards provides a delicious introduction to this exciting varietal. Dry in the finish, although marked by ripe, succulent fruit flavors and a bouquet carrying a hint of honeysuckle, it tastes both substantial and refreshing.
That beguiling combination is what makes good pinot gris so enticing. Unlike lighter whites, it feels lush and seductive, while unlike other full-bodied, often oak-laden wines, it rarely seems clunky or heavy.
This particular wine is definitely one of my favorites, but I’ve enjoyed many first-rate examples of American pinot gris this summer. They’ve come not just from California, but also from Oregon, New York and Washington state.
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