Souverain, Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, California, 2007, $17
Year in and year out, the Alexander Valley Chardonnay from Souverain (formerly Chateau Souverain) ranks among California’s best. It delivers the combination of lush texture and full flavor that has made California versions of this varietal so popular, without any of the excesses that can mar some renditions.
It also carries an attractive price tag, especially considering that chardonnays costing twice as much often fail to deliver as much pleasure.
The Alexander Valley in Sonoma County is a relatively warm region. For chardonnay, this means that the grapes tend to develop stone fruit and tropical flavors rather than those resembling apples or citrus fruits.
The wines feel richer than those made with grapes grown in cooler places, and so can handle being fermented and aged in barrel without becoming overwhelmed by the aroma and taste of wood. Although some examples can seem flabby or unfocused, this one has a firm structure, with sufficient acidity for balance, so it remains focused through its long, lingering finish.
Chardonnay in this fairly opulent style is both tasty on its own and a fine partner for equally rich-tasting dishes. This time of year, lobster is a classic match, as is crab imperial, poached salmon and sweet corn, whether in a salad or just on the cob.
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