Sometimes when I am planning a company meal, the side dishes are afterthoughts. I devote my energy to the main course, fussing over a roast, grilling chops or pan-searing fish, then cook accompaniments that are complementary but plain.
Every so often, though, I come across a vegetable dish that is so special that it becomes the inspiration for a menu. That’s the case with the carrot-and-turnip gratin featured here today.
I had been thinking about combining these two vegetables in a gratin and recently spent the better part of a morning in my kitchen trying out this idea, adjusting the balance of flavors and the timing. The end results were more tempting than I had imagined.
After blanching sliced carrots and turnips, I arranged them in a baking dish, starting with a layer of carrots, then adding one with turnips, and finishing with more carrots. I seasoned each layer of vegetables with crushed rosemary, salt and pepper, and then topped them with a thin coating of creme fraiche and a sprinkling of grated Gruyere.
When baked, the vegetables were fork tender and covered by a light crust. As final touches, I sprinkled the gratin with some toasted bread crumbs to add more texture and with minced chives for color.
This gratin, prepared with humble root vegetables, is luxuriously rich and slightly indulgent, so it is best paired with a simple entree. Herb-roasted chicken, baked ham, sauteed pork chops, or roast leg of lamb are among the many possibilities. For an upcoming spring dinner for friends, I’ve decided on the latter and will include steamed asparagus to round out the meal. I can assemble and bake the gratin early in the day, then pop it in the oven for about 15 minutes at serving time so there won’t be any last-minute anxiety.
That’s always a bonus when entertaining.
Carrot and turnip gratin
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
1/2 tablespoon butter for greasing the baking dish
1 1/2 pounds carrots
1 pound turnips (about 3 medium white, purple-topped turnips)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crushed
1 1/2 cups creme fraiche (recipe follows), divided
1 1/2 cups grated Gruyere (5 to 6 ounces), divided
6 tablespoons panko crumbs (Japanese-style bread crumbs)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped chives
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 2-quart shallow baking dish.
Peel carrots and cut on a wide diagonal into 1/4-inch thick slices. Peel turnips, halve lengthwise, and cut each half into 1/4-inch thick slices. Bring a large saucepan of water filled 2/3 full to a boil.
Add the carrots and cook until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain.
Add the turnips and cook until just tender when pierced with a knife, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain. Pat carrots dry with a clean kitchen towel; repeat with turnips.
Spread half the carrot slices over the bottom of prepared dish. Salt and pepper slices generously, and sprinkle with 1/3 of the rosemary. Using a spatula or table knife, spread 1/2 cup of the creme fraiche over the carrots, then sprinkle with 1/2 cup of the cheese.
Next, use all the turnips and arrange them overlapping slightly in a single layer over the carrots.
Season with salt, pepper and 1/3 of the rosemary. Spread with 1/2 cup creme fraiche and sprinkle with 1/2 cup cheese. Make a final layer with the carrots, using the remaining ingredients in the same way.
Bake the gratin for 10 minutes. Lower heat to 350 degrees and continue to cook until vegetables are tender when pierced with a knife and a light crust has formed on top, about 25 minutes more. (The gratin can be baked 4 hours ahead; leave, uncovered, at cool room temperature. Reheat in a preheated 350-degree oven until hot, about 15 minutes.)
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add panko crumbs and stir and cook until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle crumbs over the gratin, then garnish with chives.
CREME FRAICHE
Makes 2 cups
1 1/2 cups whipping or heavy cream
1/2 cup sour cream
Whisk cream and sour cream together; let stand at room temperature 6 hours or longer until thickened. Cover and refrigerate. Creme fraiche can be stored up to 1 week in a refrigerator.
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