Wednesday, January 23, 2008

J. Hofstatter, Lagrein, Alto Adige, 2005, $25

An Italian mountain variety that grows in the Alpine region of Alto Adige, Lagrein produces full-flavored but fairly soft-textured red wines that make for very satisfying cold-weather drinking. If you”re looking for something different and delicious, Lagrein is

definitely a wine to try.



Lagrein”s flavors echo plums and dark cherries, with hints of dark chocolate, and a satisfyingly spicy finish. Because wines made from it tend by be low in tannin, they prove very accessible when young. Good examples can improve with time in the bottle, but for the most part Lagrein is a varietal that benefits from near-term drinking.

The great attraction of Lagrein comes at the supper table. It”s fruity like a dolcetto or Beaujolais, but it has much more depth of flavor and a far fuller body, so it can stand up to stews and casseroles, chops and burgers, in a way that those lighter reds cannot. J. Hofstatter is one of Alto Adige’s best private vintners, and this 2005 Lagrein is a sheer delight to drink right now. (Imported by Domaine Select.)

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