When the other half of Two’s Company reaches for the salt shaker as he’s about to taste one of my dishes, I admit to getting a little irritated. How can anyone know how much salt food requires before tasting it?
I realize that as a cook, I make a judgment like this all the time. I often add salt to a raw dish before having any idea of what the flavor effect will be.
I base my calculation on experience and the recommendations of other cooks. I can’t avoid the step. If I don’t add salt during the cooking process, I can’t compensate later. Try salting a baked cake or cookie, and you know what I mean.
Salt has a variety of functions that often determine when you add it.
If you add salt to cooking water for green vegetables, the salt speeds up the softening, according to Harold McGee in his book “On Food and Cooking” (Scribner).
Salt is essential to bread baking. It strengthens the dough, according to food scientist Shirley Corriher. If you tried to make salt-free bread, it not only would taste flat but also could have a less desirable texture.
When you think of salt, flavor most often comes to mind. Add salt to a dish, and you’re not only getting the taste of that particular seasoning but also of all the flavors coming together. Salting a soup or stew as it’s cooking helps the process. Salting the finished dish isn’t as effective.
In the corn biscuits that follow, salt is added to the batter to improve its texture and flavor. However, in the egg dish that accompanies the biscuits, I don’t call for salt. The cheese and olives compensate for no salt. For the egg recipe, taste first, then season.
Corn biscuits
1 cup flour plus extra for kneading
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
6 to 8 tablespoons milk
1 small ear of corn, cooked, kernels removed (or 3/4 cup canned or frozen, thawed corn kernels)
Combine 1 cup flour, salt, chili powder, sugar and baking powder in a large bowl. Cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Add 1/4 cup (4 tablespoons) milk and stir in.
Continue to add milk by the tablespoon until the mixture forms a slightly sticky dough that comes together. Gently knead in corn.
Lightly flour a work board. Turn dough out onto the board. Pat into an oval 3/4-inch high. Cut out 2-inch round circles of dough. Place on ungreased baking sheet. Bake in preheated 425-degree oven for 20 to 22 minutes, or until biscuits are high and golden. Remove to wire rack to cool. Makes 6 biscuits; freeze any leftovers.
Eggs with olives and Manchego cheese
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup shredded Manchego cheese
2 tablespoons pitted chopped kalamata olives
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed oregano
1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 eggs
1 tablespoon milk
Salt to taste
Melt butter over high heat in medium-size skillet.
Meanwhile, combine cheese, olives, oregano, pepper, eggs and milk in a bowl. Pour into skillet. Let edges set.
Reduce heat to medium. Start scrambling eggs and cook until no liquid spots remain but eggs are slightly glossy, not dried out. Taste and add salt as needed.
Makes 2 servings.
Bev Bennett is the author of “30 Minute Meals for Dummies” (John Wiley & Sons).
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